Bombil Kalvan is a hot and tangy gravy preparation of a popular fish Bombil also known as Bombay Duck owing to the fact that it’s presence is found in and around waters of Mumbai.
For the benefit of those who reside outside of Mumbai, let me clarify Upfront-Bombay Duck is not a duck but a fish. It is definitely one of the most popular fishes for Mumbaikars. Particularly during monsoon seasons when fishing is stopped in sea water of west coast, Mumbaikars prefer buying dried version of this lizardfish. During summers the sight of Bombil suspended with a rope tied across poles to dry up is far too common if you happen to be in Mumbai. If you stay in vicinity to areas where the fishes are put to dry up, then this activity could prove to be a torturous exercise on your olfactory senses. The fish is high in moisture content and when dried it loses all its moisture and it appears like a small stick. So if you are familiar with Mumbai slang, this explains why a thin person is referred in Mumbai parlance as Sukka Bombil (dried Bombay Duck)
The fish is as queer in its appearance as its name. There are quite a few stories ranging from Indian mythology to Colonial history associated with this fish, let’s explore these stories. Let’s start with the mythological story first- When Lord Rama was constructing bridge to reach to Lanka, he was ably assisted by Hanuman and his army of Monkeys. However, he also received assistance from several other creatures too-fishes of the sea being one of them. While it is said, every other fish came to his assistance, Bombil or Bombay Duck refused and this made Rama angry. He tossed it towards the Bombay Bay but not before crushing it in his palms. This physical torture had crushed all its bones and it became devoid of backbone for ever. Since then the fish exists with no bones- as soft as cotton. This story features in a biography authored by Govind Narayan by the title- ‘Govind Narayan’s Mumbai: An Urban Biography from 1863’.
The other more common story explains how it acquired its name Bombay Duck- during British Raj days, this fish was transported from Mumbai along with the mail (known as Daak). Thus the name Bombay Daak stuck with it which was bastardised to Bombay Duck.
Bombil is a highly valued fish in homes of Maharashtrians, Goan, Parsis and East Indians and many delicacies exists in each of these Cuisines made with Bombil. Of late the supply of Bombil worldwide has been dwindling which explains the steep rise in its price. Climatic changes and incessant, mindless fishing are two most attributed factors for this decline. There has been a steady rise in temperatures of Ocean and fishes like Bombil, Pomfret cannot thrive in warmer conditions and have to migrate to deeper water for survival. Many local fishermen who cannot wade into deeper waters are thus staring at a crisis. Similar scene is unfolding at the eastern coast where the population of Hilsa has been declining and Bengalis are being forced to switch to other types of fish.
Cooking Bombil is not as easy as it may seem to be. There are few tips I would want to share to make this cooking exercise simple and easy. Remember these tips have been acquired over the year after several failed trials and tribulations I have performed in my kitchen. Let’s quickly visits the tips
- Wash and Clean the fish. Bombay Duck has lot of moisture. Take a large flat surface (chopping board). Spread a clean and dry cloth on the flat surface. Arrange Bombay Duck on this clean and dry cloth. Spread another clean and dry cloth on top of arranged fish. Put another heavy chopping board on this cloth. The entire purpose of doing this exercise is that it helps to press the Bombay duck. It brings out the extra moisture from the fish which is absorbed the cloth. Leave it aside for 30 mins.
- Add Fish to the curry and switch off the heat and cover the pan. Bombil will get cooked with the steam of the covered pan
- Do not add Bombil Duck one by one. Add all together.
- Never add Bombay duck when gravy is on boil. Reduce the heat, let the boil die down and then add the Bombil. If you add Bombil when the curry is boiling, fish will quickly disintegrate.
Follow these tips and cooking with Bombil will be a breeze. Bombil Kalvan with steamed rice is what a Konkani’s dreams are made of. It’s a perfect comfort food for us on Sunday afternoon which demands couple of hours of siesta followed with the meal. Let’s start with the recipe now
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Serves: 4-5
- 350 gms Bombay Duck (Bombil)
- 1 Large=100gms Onion (cubes)
- 2 Large=200gms Tomatoes (cubes)
- ½ Cup fresh Coriander Leaves
- ½ Cup fresh grated Coconut
- 12-15 Cloves of Garlic
- 1-inch Ginger root
- 1 tbsp Whole Coriander Seeds
- 5-6 Green Chilies
- ½ tsp Turmeric Powder
- 2½ tbsp Red Chili Powder (Byadagi)
- 7-8 Cloves of Garlic(with skin)
- 8-10 Curry Leaves
- 5-6 Kokum rinds
- Salt
- Cooking Oil
- Wash and Clean the fish. Bombay Duck has lot of moisture. Take a large flat surface (chopping board). Spread a clean and dry cloth on the flat surface. Arrange Bombay Duck on this clean and dry cloth. Spread another clean and dry cloth on top of arranged fish. Put another heavy chopping board on this cloth. The entire purpose of doing this exercise is that it helps to press the Bombay duck. It brings out the extra moisture from the fish which is absorbed the cloth. Leave it aside for 30 mins.
- We will start with grinding a masala paste. In a grinder jar, add Ginger, Garlic, Chilies, Coriander Seeds, Onions, Tomatoes, grated fresh Coconut, Green Coriander Leaves, Red Chili Powder. Add water and grind into a fine paste. Masala Paste for the Curry is ready. Consistency must be fine and thick. I have used ¾th Cup water while grinding the masala.
- Let's check Bombay Duck after 30 mins. Bombay duck becomes a bit flat and it loses its excess moisture. Cut into two pieces. If Bombay duck is smaller in size, then do not cut it. Let's start making the curry now.
- Heat 4 tbsp Oil in a Pan. Now, add Garlic with skin. In Konkani fish curries, often we make use of Garlic with its skin. This Tadka of Garlic makes the curry more flavorful. Try to follow this step, if you make such fish curries for more flavor. Fry until Garlic becomes light brown in color.
- As Garlic becomes brown, add Curry Leaves and Turmeric Powder. Now, we will add grounded Masala paste. Please note that all ingredients that have gone into this masala paste are raw. These ingredients have not been roasted, fried or cooked in any way. Cooking this masala paste will take longer, about 12-15 mins. The fish curry will get its color only if you have cooked the masala well.
- We have used ¾th Cup water while grinding masala paste. I have also used ¼th Cup water to clean the grinder jar and added that masala to the Pan. As the Masala starts to cook and simmer, cover it. Lower the heat, and cook covered. Stir intermittently.
- Let's check the masala paste after 15 mins. Masala has a nice red color and oil oozing out from the sides. This deep red color is due to Byadagi red Chilies. We make Byadagi red Chili Powder at home in our Konkani households that lasts for a year. This red chili powder is used mostly in our fish curries.
- Now, we will add water to the gravy. Heat 3 Cups of Water. Adding hot water helps maintain the flavor of gravy. I have used 2½ Cups of Water. Now add Salt to taste and Kokum rinds. Let the Curry simmer on high heat.
- When the curry starts to boil, lower the heat and cook covered for 3-4 mins.
- Reduce the heat, let the boil die down and then add the Bombil. If you add Bombil when the curry is boiling, fish will quickly disintegrate. Gently mix fish in the curry with a ladle. Switch off the heat and keep the curry covered.
- Bombil will get cooked in the steam. Serve hot.
- Bombay Duck is an extremely delicate fish. You can't cook it for 4-5 mins in curry as we do for other fishes. It can cook very well in the steam.
- Tip 1: Add Fish to the curry and switch off the heat and cover the pan. Bombil will get cooked with the steam of the covered pan
- Tip 2: Do not add Bombil Duck one by one. Add all together.
- Tip 3: Never add Bombay duck when gravy is on boil. Reduce the heat, let the boil die down and then add the Bombil. If you add Bombil when the curry is boiling, fish will quickly disintegrate.
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